Climbing Routes Costa Blanca

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provided in good faith as experienced by the author but may include errors.

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Serra de Benicadell. Height 1104m

A classic ridge climb involving grade 3 scrambling and up to grade 4+ rock climbing.

The first pitch is grade 4+ and the second is grade 4.

Then follows a gruelling 530m of up to grade 3 scrambling.

The final third and fourth grade 4 climbing pitches are near the summit.

The Start. The first pitch starts at an altitude of about 590 metres. GPS 30 S 0726005 UTM 4301490.

This is located at the lowest point of the ridge. The bolts start to the left of a small cave.

The second pitch continues straight up with plenty of solid rock.

Near the summit the third pitch is reached by traversing to the left and then up an easy and well bolted groove. The fourth pitch starts near a very steep wall with a piton at the top.

The first bolt is located at the lower left of this wall near a tufa looking wide crack.

At the top of this crack there is a short wall that leads to the final belay which overlooks the start of this last pitch. The pitch is well bolted.

To descent to the car park from the summit follow a well marked footpath that traverses down the north west side of Benicadell.

Since our last climb on this ridge most sections have now been bolted and all pitches can be climbed with a 30 metre rope. A short rack might be useful but is not necessary. Six quickdraws were sufficient.

Location. Exit the CV-60 Gandia to Montaverner road on the CV-611 heading for Beniatjar.

At Beniatjar fork left on the CV-615 direction Castello de Rugat. After about 1km turn right on a bend and follow a forestry track. The direction is marked La Casa Forestal de les Planises.

The car park is at the Casa Forestal and about 4km up this track.

From the car park hike straight up the main track and then turn left up a cart track which leads to the col.

Then follow a narrow track that runs parallel and descends down the north side of the Benicadell ridge.

Access from the car park to the first pitch will take about 30 minutes.

For four climbers allow at least 4 hours for the full ridge climb to the summit.

Return from the summit to the car park will take about 50 minutes.

Approaching the start of the Benicadell ridge climb